Art & Architecture in West Texas - Marfa, Prada & Cibilo Creek Ranch - Part Two
As we headed down US 67, the modern art scene and sometimes parallel universe of Marfa, Texas had been such an amazing trip, we could not have imagined what awaited us upon arrival at the small stone entry gate to the 30,000 acre piece of heaven in the high desert of the Texas Big Bend known as Cibilo Creek Ranch. According to the web site, Cibilo Creek Ranch (Cibilo Creek Ranch ) was founded by Milton Faber, a transplanted Missourian, in 1857. Built to withstand the attacks of hostile indians and others, the private fort is located in a breathtaking, mountainous landscape of austere and mesmerizing beauty.
With plentiful water from springs nearby, Faber built a ranching and agricultural empire with over 20,000 longhorn cattle, goats and sheep. The website provides a fascinating and detailed history of Cibilo, which, to my knowledge, is the only "fort" in the United States that has been transformed into a boutique destination resort. With every conceivable comfort, this is no stripped down glam camp. From the stunning architecture to the down filled beds to the vine covered porches and Mexican tiled walkways, Cibilo is chock full of character and comfort. Take all of that, throw in the cleanest, coolest, driest desert air found anywhere, and you just don't ever want to leave this desert oasis.
As we were ushered into the private concierge room and made arrangements for our stay, the architecture of this unique place was everywhere. As we were shown the dining and living rooms, as well as the wine storage area, I became more aware that no detail had been left to chance. Our room, which opened onto a long communal screen porch with a view of the small pond in the center of the compound and the mountains beyond, was everything you would expect in any five star hotel - great bed, large bath/shower area, classic furnishings and, best of all, no telephone and no tv!!!
I have talked in other posts about the unplanned and unexpected pleasures of traveling. The story of the restoration and conversion of the Cibilo Fort and the reestablishment of the ecology of the area by visionary owner, John Poindexter, is well detailed on the web site. As an architect, I have always had a keen interest in the stories behind the creation of unique places. Who better to give a first hand account of the herculean task of transforming this amazing place than the man himself. As we prepared for dinner, which is served by gracious hosts around a large dining table in the main "house", we were told the owner would be dining with us. This is where one of those moments you never forget enters the story. Not only did we learn of the vision, challenges and work involved in creating this unique resort, what started out as a rather formal dining experience, with a very eclectic group of strangers, turned into a three hour dining experience full of stories and tall tales. After dinner, we relocated to a massive outdoor stone fireplace, under a full moon, for more wine and conversation. The perfect setting to end a wonderful day of life in this desert enclave of stone, rust and old wood with great people we had only just met.
As we visited other parts of this vast ranch (there are two other collections of buildings) we began to understand what draws people to the desert. Frank Lloyd Wright once said that he always found inspiration when he visited the Grand Canyon, another natural architectural masterpiece in the desert. You understand that inspiration in a place like Cibilo. Every stone, every cotton wood tree, every ravine seems to have been "designed" to create the perfect landscape. In addition, Cibilo has a diverse assortment of animals, including buffalo, Texas longhorn cattle ,and even camels, which were were originally used by the cavalry in this part of Texas in the 1850's.
Places like Cibilo Creek Ranch create their own culture. They take you into there world and change you. I have said it before, but it bares repeating. The Nomad Architect is not about nice sheets and great service. It is about places like Cibilo that you really never leave. As we drove back to the airport in El Paso, I was so thankful that we had found this unusual place, designed to relax the head and nourish the heart, and I could have sworn I heard Texas Rangers August McCrae and Woodrow Call arguing over the best route to Montana.
Travel Quote of The Day
Here's to the sunny slopes of long ago. - Gus McCrae Texas Ranger - Lonesome Dove
They say you can't get there from here. But when you finally get there, it is well worth the trip. A good friend from Tallahassee, who lived in Austin for several years, says Texas really is like living in a different country. After our visit several years ago, I know what she means. Everyone knows about the cultural and music scene in Austin or the big city glitz of Dallas, but few have experienced the sometimes-surreal experience of West Texas and the art enclave of Marfa, Texas. In addition, the boutique destination hotel/resort Cibilo Creek Ranch is a mere thirty minutes south in the high desert country of west Texas. You'll hear about that amazing place next week.
After landing in El Paso, we knew we were in a "different" country when the car rental agent made me sign a document stating that I would not take the rental car into Mexico and then gave me a stern lecture on what would happen if I violated that agreement. We grabbed some lunch and headed down I-10 for the three-hour drive to the small town ofMarfa, Texaswhere we planned to stay for a couple of nights before our final destination atCibilo Creek Ranch.
Leaving I-10 behind for US 90, we headed further into the Texas desert. One of the great joys of travel, especially road trips, is the serendipitous occurrence of the unexpected. Imagine our delight when we came uponPrada Marfa, a permanent architectural art installation designed to resemble a Prada store. Complete with high design shoes and handbags, this small building/sculpture, literally in the middle of nowhere, served as an iconic marker of more to come thirty miles down the road. Just click on the highlighted Prada Marfa above to see a short video.
TheHotel Paisano, which can be had for about $200 a night, housed the cast and crew of the classic 1956 filmGiant,starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean, was the perfect place to rest up for our venture into the world of Marfa. Opened in 1930, this restored Spanish Revival gem captures an earlier time of a Texas community that was the center of the cattle business and social life of West Texas. With exquisitely detailed interiors, a stunning courtyard, open air balconies and an indoor swimming pool, it is the perfect base to enjoy the many bounties of this cool little out of the way place. The other hotel worthy of note is the Thunderbird. A minimalist renovation of a classic 50's motor hotel, it is another option for those that want to enjoy a different design approach for sleeping while in Marfa.
New York hasMOMA, LA hasThe Gettyand ParisThe Louvre. The Chinati Foundationis Marfa's answer to the question:What in the world is there to do in Marfa, Texas? Established by visionary artistDonald Judd, the foundation officially opened to the public in 1986. Comprised of various buildings at locations in and around Marfa, the permanent and temporary collections are both provocative and powerful. Due to physical limitations, large works of art and sculpture are often compromised in museums. None of those limitations are in evidence here. Large outdoor sculptures, as well as works by Judd and other artists, are housed in converted artillery sheds, older utilitarian buildings, houses and smaller galleries downtown, allowing the viewer to see the work as the artist originally intended. So, plan on spending the day in this utterly fascinating world where cow town meets modern art in one of the most unique environments you will ever experience.
Just like the art and architecture, Marfa offers unique eating choices. For dinner, we enjoyed outstanding Italian, with a Texas twist, at the intimateMaiya's, which, unfortunately has closed. With stark, minimalist interiors of white walls, concrete bar tops and bright red light fixtures, it proved the perfect place for dining after a busy day of Marfa culture.
After dinner, we drove out of town to view the Marfa Lights. The paranormal lights, visible from a viewing station on US 67 just outside of Marfa. After many studies by paranormal experts and scientists the mysterious lights have yet to be adequately explained. As we headed back to The Paisano, thinking about the day's events - the Prada store/sculpture, the minimalist art in sheds and fields in this little corner of west Texas and unexplained night lights - I started to see and hear Rod Serling everywhere!!
After a very peaceful sleep in your room overlooking the pool, you can start the day at any one of the many great intimate restaurants in Marfa. Enjoy the perfect start for more gallery hopping and then on to Cibilo. As we headed out of Marfa to our final destination at Cibilo, we knew we had found one of those places that makes you realize that taking the road less traveled - You will always be better for it.
TODAY IS THE NOMAD ARCHITECT'S OFFICIAL ANNUAL COMEDY CENTRAL ON TRAVEL. IF YOU ARE A VAGABOND OR WANDERER OR TRAVEL FREAK YOU HAVE TO KNOW THAT TRAVEL PRESENTS COUNTLESS OPPORTUNITIES TO LAUGH WHEN YOU'RE ON THE TRAIN, IN YOUR CAR OR, PARTICULARLY, ON AN AIRPLANE.
FROM OLD COMICS TO NEW COMICS, THE TAKE ON THE JOYS AND SORROWS OF TRAVEL MAKES ALL NOMADs SMILE.
A comic who has been performing standup for twenty years has become a major comedy star. This very funny comic has been nominated for a Grammy and appeared on Saturday Night Live. He is constantly on tour. He is also on NETFLIX. The Tennesse native performed for a crowd of over 19,000 in Nashville's Bridgestone Arena. Have a few laughs as he tells a story of checking in with DELTA.
And a funny take on missing your flight & losing your cell phone.
Gaffigan is one of the biggest comics performing today. Winner of various awards for his work, Gaffigan is often referred as the clean comic. Here, he talks about his personal experience - traveling with five kids.
Here's another take on travel from Gaffigan on Chevking into Hotels.
Comedian, dancer and podcaster Kevin Bozeman discusses Air Travel.
Here is a cut from one of the funniest female comedians working today. Leeanne Morgan talks about summer ending way too soon.
Laughing, even after a nine-hour flight, always makes you and yours feel better. So, smile and enjoy the Fall of 2024.
CHARLESTON IS A QUICK TWO HOURS FROM SAVANNAH. MUCH LIKE SAVANNAH, IT HAS SO MANY THINGS TO SEE AND DO YOU WILL NEVER BE WONDERING - NOW WHAT DO WE DO? FOUNDED IN 1670, THIS GRAND SOUTHERN CITY HAS A COMPLICATED HISTORY - SLAVERY, SMALLPOX, MALARIA, HURRICANES AND MANY OTHER MALADIES PLUS THE REVOLUTIONARY WAR AND THE CIVIL WAR AFFECTED THIS CITY. TODAY IT HAS IT ALL - AMAZING FOOD, FREINDLY PEOPLE, AN ECLECTIC ART SCENE AND WATER EVEYWHERE.
FIRST - WHERE TO STAY
We enjoyed Charleston several years ago. I posted about Charleston and The Inn at Middleton Place where we stayed in August of 2012. This hotel is noted as a winner of the highest design award from The American Institute of Architects. It is a modern hotel sensitive to the local history of the area. However, it was about thirty minutes from downtown Charleston. The hotel was exceptionally well designed, had great food and amazing views of the Ashley River and the surrounding former plantation. The current day price is around $340 a night. If you want to experience the intimate diversity of Charleston up close and personal reserve one of the many super cool AIRBNB's all over the city for reasonable prices. On the other hand, The Middleton will afford you and yours a great place to stay and relax after a busy day of walking and enjoying Charleston.
Charleston has great restaurants, great museums, interesting walking tours, a birds of prey sanctuary, all manner of other interesting tours, Cypress Gardens where you can enjoy being rowed around in a black swamp and many other things to see and do. Just click the SO WHAT DO WE DO NOW link above.
A few quotes on this quintessential very old and very modern city:
“Charleston is one of the best built, handsomest, and most agreeable cities that I have ever seen.” – Marquis de Lafayette
“I’m going back to dignity and grace. I’m going back to Charleston, where I belong.”– Rhett Butler, Gone With The Wind
“Walking the streets of Charleston in the late afternoons of August was like walking through gauze or inhaling damaged silk.” – Pat Conroy
“Come quickly, have found heaven.” – Artist Alfred Hutty
Anyway you ponder Charleston you will be glad you walked its streets, ate its food and saw its beauty.
See ya next week with more places to wander through.
Fall is just around the corner - Official Start of Autumn is September 22. Right now, there is bright sunshine with occasional clouds & rain with temperatures in the low 90's. Officially, the hurricane season runs from June to November. However, I'm going forward with a positive outlook that the bad stuff is done! It's time to update and actually do things on your bucket list. Most people's Bucket Lists have places they want to travel to - Italy, Spain, France-Provence, and on and on. All those places to visit and experience the cultures, the people, the food, and other amazing things in our world run up and down our lists. Today's post, however, is about the greatest country on the planet - the Good Ole' USA Southern Style!
Because America is so large and diverse, there are many places you can visit to see the natural and built beauty of this country. The photo to the right is the famous Frank Lloyd Wright residence and studio Taliesen West about thirty minutes outside of Pheonix. You can travel to Napa Wine Country or the incomparable Southwest of Arizona, New Mexico, and Utah, or the Carolinas, containing the most amazing residence ever built in the US - The Biltmore Mansion, just outside the very hip town of Asheville, NC. Throw in Texas or Arkansas or the Great Western places in Montana and Wyoming such as Yellowstone or Glacier National. You can keep very busy seeing amazing places in this so-diverse country. I have always believed that great travel involves great planning combined with serendipity.
Here are thoughts on some places that should be on every Vagabond's Bucket List.
It's a long drive to Asheville from my hometown, Tallahassee, but the drive is beautiful most of the way. Or you could stop off somewhere halfway in a very cool and inexpensive ($90 a night) AIRBNB in Marietta Square, Georgia a few minutes north of Atlanta with all five-star reviews - The Grand In Marietta Square. Then make the drive to Asheville where the Biltmore Estate has existed since 1895. The privately owned residence is the largest single-family residence in North America. Logging in at 178,926 square feet with 250 rooms, 33 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms and 65 fireplaces this mansion is one of the most impressive works of architecture I have ever seen. It sits on 8,000 acres surrounded by the Blue Ridge Mountains with scenic areas everywhere for walking, biking, carriage rides, hiking, horseback riding and more.
We stayed in a small boutique Hotel Indigo - great design, great staff and great views priced at $200 a night. And it's only about ten minutes from the Biltmore. Or, if you really want to just relax in pure luxury and impress, a room at The Innon Biltmore Estate is your choice for a nice $670. For less money check into The Village Hotelon Biltmore Estate for a paltry $380! We had a delicious lunch there.
If you want to take a trip that is easy and reasonably priced - Savannah is the place. You can stop about halfway at Amelia Island for lunch. Amelia has numerous great restaurants. Just click Florida Trippers for a list of great restaurants serving fresh seafood and other culinary delights. Then head up to the oldest city in Georgia - Savannah. This beautiful ancient, yet modern city has it all - great food, great museums, beautiful streets for walking with amazing scenery everywhere. It also has a plethora of hotels, large and small, as well as AIRBNB's for every budget. The Andaz Hotel is right downtown convenient to great restaurants, museums and other amenities. Today's rate is around $260 depending on when you go and what room design you select. Or if you want to save your money for food and other stuff, check out a list of AIRBNB's for the budget minded vagabond. This classy city has twelve great museums exhibiting works from ancient history to ultra-modern. First on my list is the SCAD Museum featuring innovative sculptures and paintings such as the yellow boot above.
“If you go to Atlanta, the first question people ask you is, "What's your business?" In Macon they ask, "Where do you go to church?" In Augusta they ask your grandmother's maiden name. But in Savannah the first question people ask you is "What would you like to drink?”
Today's video features a founding member of the multi-award-winning group Florida-Georgia LineBrian Kelley. He performs a cool tune extolling the virtues of Georgia's oldest city - Savannah.
TODAY - PART TWO OF MY BUCKET LIST IS FOR ALL VAGABONDS, WANDERERS AND EXPLORERS DESIRING TO GO TO PLACES FAR AND WIDE. THE NOMAD ARCHITECT IS GOING TO FEATURE PLACES IN ONE OF THE MOST MISUNDERSTOOD, YET BEAUTIFUL COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD - FRANCE!
BEFORE WAXING ELOQUENTLY ABOUT la FRANCE, IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT I ADDRESS THE ATTITUDES THAT AMERICANS AND OTHER VISITORS HAVE ABOUT FRANCE - THE HISTORY, THE ARCHITECTURE, THE LAND, THE FOOD, THE WINE, THE PEOPLE - ALL MAKEUP THE ESSENCE OF A COUNTRY THAT HAS CREATED GREAT WORKS OF ART FROM MONET TO KANDINSKY, AN AMAZING CULTURE ANCIENT AND MODERN AND SOME OF THE GREATEST FOOD EVER CREATED.
LOVE & HATE
“How can anyone govern a country that has 246 varieties of cheese?” Charles de Gaulle
"To err is human. To loaf is Parisian" - Victor Hugo
“It is perfectly possible to be enamored of Paris while remaining totally indifferent or even hostile to the French.” -James Baldwin
“In Paris, they simply stared when I spoke to them in French; I never did succeed in making those idiots understand their own language.” - Mark Twain
"A walk in Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of life" - Thomas Jefferson
“The flavors melted in my mouth- warm chocolate and melted butter and the flaky sweet crust. This was what I loved about France. A keen appreciation for the simplicity and sweetness of life. The French seemed to savor their minutes along with their food.” — Melanie Dobson - Author
We landed in Paris and checked into the ultra-modern Hotel Mayet. Our room was almost Lilliputian but was beautiful and comfortable and located perfectly not far from The Eiffel Tower and other places to see. Today's price is reasonable for Paris - $250 - $290, depending on when you go. Right after we checked in, we had dinner at a small restaurant next door. After dinner, we decided to just take a leisurely stroll. As we turned a corner, there it was - the world-famous shining Eiffel Tower right in front of us. We held hands and smiled walking together. One of the unique architectural features of central Paris is that there are no tall buildings, except for the Eiffel. All tall buildings are on the perimeter of the city.
Provence
After taking a train we checked into a small, intimate place in Avignon which, unfortunately, has closed. It was a great old house re-designed by a Swiss architect with an intimate courtyard perfect for relaxing and talking. If you want to see what this unique Bed & Breakfast was like just click Lumani for The Nomad Architect's description. Then we rented a car and drove a quick 45 minutes to a repurposed farm turned into a high-end hotel in the center of its own wine vineyard just outside the small town of Menerbes in Provence - La Bastide de Marie. In all honesty, this place with only twelve rooms or suites is not low priced - $330 - $400. But sometimes you just need to spend more to get more. This five star "bastide" has it all - incredible romantic rooms and suites, amazing food and wine, the Pure Altitude Spa, an outdoor pool, a massage room and about seventy acres to hike and roam around in. I do not say this about most places we stay, but La Bastide de Marie was one of the most comfortable, beautiful and romantic places we have ever enjoyed.
Trust me, this place will change your way of thinking about elegant travel.
Next week - more Bucket List thoughts for wandering nomads coming your way!
Video of the Week - Perfect for France and Romance - Multi-Grammy Award winning Nora Jones gives a very smooth performance and video of one of her great romantic tunes - COME AWAY WITH ME. We had the pleasure of seeing the smooth and cool jazz artist several years ago.
SUMMER IS ALMOST OVER. SCHOOL HAS STARTED BACK. TEMPERATURES ARE SLOWLY DRIFTING DOWNARD. EARLY FALL IS ONE OF THE BEST TIMES OF YEAR TO TRAVEL TO PLACES NEW AND OLD. CROWDS ARE SMALLER, PRICES GO DOWN, WEATHER IS NICER, IT'S EASIER TO SEE THINGS, AND TRAVELING IS JUST SIMPLER. TODAY, THE NOMAD ARCHITECT IS GOING TO DO A LIST OF SPECIAL PLACES THAT SHOULD BE ON YOUR BUCKET LIST. THIS IS A GREAT TIME OF YEAR TO GO GO GO! IMHO! TODAY - PLACES WE HAVE VISITED.
ITALY
If you are familiar with this blog at all, you must know that I fell in love with Italy several years ago on our first trip to a country that prides itself on being the cradle of Western Civilization. Italy is slightly smaller than California. It's easy to get anywhere quickly and efficiently via one of the best train systems in Europe. Here are a few places that are Bucket List worthy.
Tuscany
One word describes this
unique part of Italy -Romance! This is the place to enjoy a great experience with the one you love. Everywhere you go is another winery. With seven different wine regions producing some of the most famous wines in the world, you never run out of choice for different wine tastes. Just click on WINE TRAVELER for information on wineries, getting around Tuscany and information on towns, large & small, in this beautiful area.
Where to stay you might ask. There is a small romantic hotel of only 22 rooms in the heart of this fascinating place of romance, beauty and pleasure - Castello di Tornano. I have mentioned this amazing small hotel many times in earlier posts. In 2001 it was repurposed from a noble residence, built in the eleventh century, to an utterly charming place of 22 rooms in the heart of the Chianti Region. And the deal clencher? $120 - $190 depending on when you go and how long you stay.
USA HOORAY!
I’m always posting about places in Europe. However, there are places in the good old USA that can get you excited about travel in our diverse country. One such place sits right on the Pacific in a beautiful forest with views to die for.
Southern Oregon
Wild Spring Guest Habitat is a quick three hours from Eugene. We flew into Portland International and drove to our first AIRBNB - Bright Airy Studio In The Treesin Eugene to relax and recover from a fairly long flight. The next morning, we drove to one of the most romantic places to lay our heads and enjoy each other for our 40th Anniversary. Our Cabin Suite was large and comfortable with a small living room space, a king-size bed and a massive stand-up shower. We stayed five days and enjoyed the beautiful spa hot tub with magical views of the Pacific. They have beautiful walking trails for hikers. They even have a Walking Labyrinth in a grove of 100-foot trees with benches to sit and enjoy the beauty of this place. The Habitat is located about sixty miles from the Northern California state line just outside the small town of Port Orford which has several unique museums containing exceptional works of sculpture and painting. And the price - including a delicious breakfast every morning - Around $240.
One reviewer posted this small statement about this amazing place:
There's a moment outside time where the wild dreams unravel, and the soul is free to dance unencumbered by the weight of shoulds and coulds. This is that place where those souls gather to celebrate in tall trees." Jaya
That's it for Part One of BUCKET LIST TRAVELS. Next week, more to come! In the meantime - Make some reservations!
Video of The Week - One of the most innovative artists to ever take a stage - PRINCE performs CREAM with just his acoustic guitar for accompaniment. I had the distinct pleasure of seeing him perform this set in the early 2000's.
